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June 14, 2005: Day packs heavily loaded with fresh fruit and drinks, my husband and I set out on the Ermine Hill trail to meet the girls at a low point of the Kesugi Ridge trail. Our route takes us downhill for the first half mile to cross this stream. We're in Denali State Park, and we meet several workers walking back and forth with lumber. "The bridge is out," each one tells us. They are carrying lumber for a new one. |
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The creek without the bridge is a rushing torrent mid-calf to mid-thigh deep, gushing off steep Ermine Hill. We decide to wade wet, holding on to the remains of the old bridge. As we climb Ermine Hill, we can see a pond below with a pair of swans. We hear an interesting bugling call and conclude that they must be Trumpter Swans. |
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We'd been worried about Ermine Hill, having heard how steep it was. So we are pleasantly surprised to discover that since the last time we considered this hike, a lovely switchback trail has been put it. Bless you, Park Service workers. It's a beautiful day and trail winds through a pleasant birch forest. |
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After topping Ermine Hill, the trail heads more or less straight back toward the ridge on more gently sloping ground. |
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Denali (as Mt. McKinley is known locally) plays peek-a-boo, clouds of its own making smothering the summit. The braided river bottom of the Chulitna is plainly visible. |
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As we found yesterday, there is still quite a bit of snow up here. It's melting fast, though -- the temperature is probably in the high 60s or low 70s. This eager plant is not waiting for the snow to finish melting. |
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At last we reach the Kesugi Ridge trail. Looking back, we get a nice view of the little lake in this valley. The last several hundred yards of trail was buried under the snowfield on the left. We've been hurrying for fear we'd keep the girls waiting, but there is no sign of them yet. It's about one o'clock. |
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Looking north, we can see the trail the girls will descend to approach us, and we realize that they'll have to cross a large, steep snowfield to get down into this saddle. This is the stuff parental worry is made of. |
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As the afternoon wears on, we eat our lunches and take a nap. The day is warm, a little breeze keeps the mosquitoes away, and the alpine tunra makes a soft bed. Five o'clock rolls around and still no sign of the girls. We're not too worried -- it's only a week until summer solstice, so we don't have to worry about it getting dark. |
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There's a rare thunderstorm in the valley behind the ridge. Fortunately, it passes us by. We explore the saddle we're in with its interesting granite tors. I see something on the snowfield. "Look, look!" I exclaim, thinking it's the girls. But no, it's the biggest black bear I've ever seen and it's ambling up the snowfield exactly in the direction the girls will come from. |
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Parental worry is now in overdrive. We try calling the girls on the radio, as we've been doing all afternoon. The radio is supposed to have five miles range, but that's line of sight and the ridge is in the way. No answer. We keep trying off and on. |
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How long should we wait? No use chasing up the ridge after them - they might have come to an impassable area, like an avalanche track, and had to turn back. They might be back at Little Coal Creek. At last, around seven o'clock, we see four specks on the snow field that can only be the girls and dogs. |
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Mr. Lebowski is amazed to see us and runs ahead to greet us. Later, they tell us they didn't hear any of our radio transmissions except for one short burst that was totally clear: "There's a bear on the trail coming your way." Shortly after that, they got onto a false trail after crossing a snowfield. When they realized they weren't on the trail, the GPS they carried helped them find the real trail. The lost time probably kept them from meeting the bear. |
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The girls are sunburnt but exhilarated. The hike was wonderful. But they've used two of their three days and they're only halfway. They opt to spend the night in the saddle and follow us down Ermine Hill in the morning. About nine o'clock that night we head back to the trailer. At the top of Ermine Hill we enjoy a final look at Denali. |
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